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''Tou and Your 
J^ndry " 

by 
Mrs. Christine Frederick 

II 

Household Efficiency Expert; Author "The New 

Housekeeping", "Household Engineering"; 

Director Applecroft Experiment Station 

Greenlawn, Long Island 


i: 1 

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1 
1 

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Written and Designed Expressly for 

THE HURLEY MACHINE CO. 

NEW YORK CHICAGO TORONTO 

CopyriKht. \')22. by Hurley Machine Co. 




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Thor 32— The last word in clolhes'ivashing efficiency. 



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CHAPTER I 

Why Friction and Washboard Methods 
Are Out of Date 

f HE first cleaning of clothing by a wet or washing method 
was done in the running water of a river. The women of 
primitive peoples carried their soiled garments to the edge 
of a stream, and either held or fastened them down with a 
rock while they allowed the action of the water to wash 
out the dirt. Then the women gradually discovered that laying the 
clothing on a smooth stone, and pounding with another rock or flat 
stick seemed to remove the dirt more easily. The next step was to 
build out into the river a sloping, narrow platform, and rub the 
wash on this wooden surface. Soon they made grooves or ridges in 
these platforms, and thus was evolved the modern popular "wash- 
board" — which to-day is as much of a discarded antique as tallow 
dips and warming pans ! 

All of these early and traditional methods were based on the idea 
of friction, either by rubbing the pieces on a board or pounding them 
with some form of paddle. This rub-a-dub-dub method persisted 
for centuries, not because it was the best way to remove soil from 
clothing, but because no one, until recent times, studied to find 
some new and more efficient washing principles. 

Just as for thousands of years people cooked their food by hold- 
ing it on a stick over a bed of hot coals, because more advanced 
methods of using an iron range or an electric grill had not been dis- 
covered, so too, women ever^'where have followed the old drudgery 
washboard- friction habit of washing because the wonderful, labor- 
saving methods of machine washing were not yet perfected. 

There were several steps in the development of successful machine 
washing, such as is now made possible by the THOR cylinder washer. 
The first was the discovery that water itself has solvent power, and 
that by adding to it certain substances, this power, especially over 
dirt and grease, is still more effective. Primitive housekeepers added 
wood ashes to the wash water, but found that while this lye "cut" 
the dirt, it was too hard on the clothes. To lessen such bad effects, 
they combined lye with fat — and thus originated modern soap. 

The second step was a clearer understanding of textiles and of 
the way in which dirt and grease are absorbed and retained by the 
various fibres of which textiles are made. Under the microscope 
cotton and linen appear like strings or ribbons of cells, while wool 
shows as overlapping fish-scales, which are found to expand when 



[3] 



wet and which if rubbed while wet or subjected to hot water, at 
once interlock, thus shortening the fibre and resulting in what we 
call "shrinkage." Now what we call "soil" in clothing is insoluble 
particles of dirt laid suspended ann)nii these fibres by the waste oil 
given off constantly by the human skin. This oil, or grease, must 
be ''cut" or attacked so that the dirt particles may be set free from the 
fibres and carried away in the wash water. 

In other words, it is necessary to be convinced that to success- 
fully cleanse clothing we must use those methods which will most effec- 
tively dissolve grease, and thus permit the dirt to fall away from between 
the fibres of the clothing. Modern science has proved to us that such 
methods are purely chemical reactions —and that grease is best 
removed, not by rubbing, but by treating it with those substances 
which have been found to literally dissolve it and change it into 
other forms. All grease is combinations of fatty acids — and we 
must use the opposing chemical elements, or alkalis (such as washing 
soda, ammonia, borax, etc., or variations of them as found in soap), 
in the wash water in order to break up the grease and permit the 
real dirt to detach itself from the clothing. 



How You Can Get Rid of Hand Rubbing 

Every worker must understand this modern principle of the 
attacking of grease by chemical substances in solution, in order to 
see why machine washing is so effective. If she grasps this newer 
idea clearly, she will surely also see how futile, how useless, and 
wrong was the old-fashioned habit of rubbing by hand, using a wash- 
board, or even a machine based on pounding or friction. Would 
all the hand rubbing in the world remove an inkspot from a table-cover? 
No! But just add a few drops of the proper neutralizing agent 
and watch the stain instantly disappear, leaving the cloth spotless! 
Thus just as a few drops of the right chemical will remove a dis- 
figuring stain, so the judicious use of grease solvents like soap, borax, 
etc., when added to wash water in solution of the proper strength will 
accomplish a cleansing of the clothes which could not be equalled by 
hours of hand rubbing. 

Remember this illustration of the inkspot every time you or any 
person is led to remark that they "don't see how a machine will 
wash clothes without rubbing." Even when you did rub the clothes 
with a bar of soap on a washboard it was not the rubbing, but the 
alkali or other chemical agent released from the soap which really 
cleaned, and not the rub. When you used a cake of soap on the 
washboard you were obtaining only about 10 per cent, of the value 
of the soap as a cleanser; when you dissolve that soap and use it in a 
solution, or use a solution prepared with other chemical agents 
which attack grease, you secure their full 100 per cent, value in ''cut- 
ting" body soil and setting the dirt particles loose in the wash water. 

Further, remove from your mind any misconception as to the 
injurious effect of such solutions upon clothing when properly used, 



[4] 



\ 



or any idea that clothes washed in such a machine as the THOR 
after methods to be hereafter described, could possibly harm the 
most delicate articles. Can you not see that washing solutions, 
rightly made, which affect and break down grease in a few moments, are 
far less dangerous than the long continued rub-a-dub-rubhing of a 
washboard method? Such solutions attack the grease between the 
fibres; the washboard wears out the fibres themselves. Which do you 
prefer? A "cake of soap" does not enter into modern machine 
washing — all soap must be shaved, powdered, and dissolved with 
other agents in the wash water. 

But the last, and probably the most important step to success- 
ful machine washing is the principle of the cleansing power of water 
when applied with force, as brought to such mechanical perfection 
in the THOR cylinder machine. For a long time I myself could not 
understand how, even with a proper soap solution, the clothes could 
be washed clean. I saw the motor turning, I watched the cylinder 
revolve, I observed it reverse after each eight times around in one 
direction — but still I did not grasp this new principle of machine 
washing. 

Do you, too, still wonder how a washing machine drives out 
dirt? 

Imagine for a moment a dirty city pavement or street. Think 
of a street cleaner appearing with his hose, and see him attach it 
to a water supply. Watch him turn on the hose. Notice how, 




LUMINOID CYLINDER 

The double turned edges of tlie holes in Ihe Luminoid Cylinder are beaded, which 
absolutely prevents clothes from catching or tearing. 



[5] 



instantly, the grease and litter of the pavement flies before the onrush 
of the water stream as he plays it before him, leaving the pavement 
startlingly clean. 

But suppose that the water were shut up in a tight metal box 
or tub, and that instead of being thrown in only one direction, it 
was forced now forward, now down, now up again, in an endless 
change of position as it struck the sides of the tub. And that further, 
the tub was fitted with a perforated cylinder containing soiled clothes, 
and that, as the cylinder revolved within the tub, the water was 
forced through those countless holes, out, and back, and over. 
If you looked in the cylinder you would also see that at intervals 
along its sides were narrow bars or "lifters", and that as the cylinder 
went around, these bars caught up and "lifted" the clothes to the 
top, there to drop them back into the water of their own weight and 
with much force — but instantly "lifting" the next batch up and 
dropping it — over and again, as long as the cylinder revolved. And 
all the time, the warm and sudsy water is pouring in and over and 
through the clothes, impelled by the continuous, steady force 
exerted by the motor. Perhaps now you can see how clothes are 
washed clean in a THOR washer! 

Letting the Force of Water Clean Your Clothes 

The man with the hose played the water only a few moments 
on one spot — the wash water in a THOR machine strikes continu- 
ously back and forth and between the fibres of the clothes for the 
whole 10 to 15 minutes of the washing period; the street water was 
cold — in the washer it is warm and strong with the proper solutions; 
but most important, the THOR machine is so constructed as to 
give this wonderful and forceful "drop" — this cleansing power to 
the water as it "drops" the load from top to bottom of the cylinder 
at each revolution. The clothes are constantly in motion and the 
dirt is being forced from the fibres, yet there is no pounding device, no 
harmful "dolly", no "suction cups", to press or damage the finest 
lace. The THOR is the perfection of the new, modern principles 
of machine washing. If you can understand why a hose playing 
a moment on the street will remove grime and dirt, you will cer- 
tainly grasp the understanding of machine washing — how the con- 
tinuous, ever-revolving cylinder, reversing in its tub of agitated 
suds and with the power of each "drop" of the load, will wash soil 
out of textile fibres far more effectively and with less wear to the 
clothing than any hand rubbing or pounding device you could 
employ. 

Surely every modern woman must throw the old rub-a-dub 
practices out of her mind, just as she will throw the drudgery wash- 



[6] 



board out of her laundry ! No housekeeper today persists in roast- 
ing her Sunday dinner over a spit when she can buy an insulated 
oven, or in using a dirt-scattering corn broom when she can procure 
a dust-absorbing vacuum cleaner. So too, where is the housekeeper 
of this progressive year who will refuse to understand the new, 
slightly different, but still very simple principles which make machine 
washing a success? 




No. 32 THOR— Family Size. 
(Exhibition Machine with glass end to show action of clothes in cylinder.) 



[7] 




CHAPTER II 

How to Prepare and Use Soap Solutions 

for Machine Washing 

'^W.Sf' ^ WAS pointed out thai one of the most important steps 
in successful machine washing was the use of the right 
cleansing solutions. The worker operating a machine 
must lay aside the idea of using soap in cake or solid 
form, and realize that to get the maximum efficiency 
from soap it must be cut up and dissolved so that every particle 
blends with the wash water. All bar soap should be shaved or cut 
line, added to cold water, and brought slowly to boil until the 
liquid is clear and of an amber shade. 

Or powdered soap ground into minute particles may be pur- 
chased, which owing to its form, will save the labor of hand cutting 
and dissolve evenly and quickly. Possibly such powdered soap is 
the best of all for washing machine use; but it must not be confused 
with the common "washing powders" which contain not only soap, 
but varying amounts of other materials, resin, sand, etc. It is 
wisest and much more economical and safe not to buy these 
"powders", but to use the best grade of pure soap, and add at home 
the desired borax, soda or other grease-cutting substances. In this 
way the exact amount of such cleansers as required can be "built-in" 
to the soap solution, and the housewife be assured of purity, and 
more definite solutions for each different class of washing. 

If I were asked the one besetting sin of American housekeepers 
in the past, I believe I should say that it was the reckless and harm- 
ful misuse of washing soda! How often have we carelessly added a 
"handful of soda" to every tub or pail of water! Washing soda is 
the strongest alkali, and while it is excellent to soften very hard 
water, and to "cut" grease, it is injurious to wools, silks and colors, 
and should never be thrown into the wash water, but carefully 
measured and added when necessary to the dissolved soap solution, 
and the heating continued until all the soda crystals are also dis- 
solved. If the water is soft, there are other cleansers such as borax 
and ammonia, kerosene, etc., which are safer and which can be used 
on colored as well as white clothes. 

Borax and ammonia are also alkalis cutting grease and having 
mild bleaching properties. Borax is the safest, and Jj cup may be 
added to the rinse water of flannels to whiten them. If ammonia 
is used it should not be "household" ammonia, but the concentrated 
kind, purchased of a druggist, which may then be diluted with two or 
four parts of water as- needed. Turpentine, kerosene and paraffin 
are excellent when very, greasy colored clothes are washed, since 



they "cut" the grease without harming colors. For all flannels and 
colored goods only the purest white soap (containing no resin or 
free alkali) should be employed. 

A washing for a family of five requires 2 to 3 cakes of white 
soap. If you have hard water, soften it by adding borax only — a 
tablespoonful to each cylinder of clothes. Dissolve borax in water 
before adding to washing. 

1 — Washing solution for General Washing (soft water) 

1 cup powdered soap or 1 bar best white laundry soap 

2 tablespoons borax 
2 quarts water 

Dissolve shaved soap in hot water heated slowly, cool, and add 
borax. If powdered soap is used, mix to a thick cream with cold 
water, then add hot and dissolve perfectly. Use in proportion of 
one cup of solution to each load of clothes. This may be used 
safely on common flannels and on coarse colored goods, as kitchen 
aprons, men's shirts, etc. 

2 — Washing Solution for Fine Flannels or Colored Goods 

1 large bar best white soap 

2 tablespoons borax 
4 quarts water 

Dissolve soap in heated water, cool and add borax. Use in 
proportion of one cup of solution to each load of lightweight flannels, 
or double this strength for heavy blankets. (If purity of powdered 
soap is certain, make as in solution). 

3 — Soap Bark Solution for Very Delicate Colors or Black Fabrics 

4 cups "soap bark" (bought at druggist) 
1 gallon of water 

Boil slowly twenty minutes, strain and use this emulsion in 
place of soap solution, rinsing well. 

4 — Washing Solution for Very Greasy Colored Clothes 

Yi bar white laundry soap or about 3 ounces soap powder 

Yi cup turpentine 

1 gallon lukewarm water 

Dissolve soap and add turpentine. Use in proportion of about 
yi cup of solution to each washing load as of greasy overalls, shirts, 
or colored fabrics affected with grease, paint, vaseline or varnish, 
washing in lukewarm water only. 



^ 



19] 




Hurley Soap 

Some years ago it was impossible to ol^lain granulated or pow- 
dered soap that could be relied upon. The Hurley Machine Com- 
pany has succeeded in bringing out a powdered soap which they 
unreservedly guarantee. 
The soap is composed of in- 
gredients, in just the right 
proportion, to obtain the 
maximum cleansing effi- 
ciency, and nothing that can 
in any way injure the fabric; 
linens, blankets, finest laces, 
are washed perfectly. Using 
the soap according to direc- 
tions enables you to obtain a 
uniform suds each washday, 
bringing your clothes always 
to the same degree of white- 
ness. 

_ Hurley Soap is ready for ^^^^^^^, -^ ^.^.^^ .,^ ^ ;^_ ^^^^^^ 25 lb. pails 
immediate use. No cutting - and 250 lb. barrels. 

up and boiling is necessary. 

Sprinkle in a few ounces on the revolving cylinder- that is all. In a very 
few minutes you have just the right suds. It saves you time and work. 

Hurley Soap is economical to use. There is no waste — because 
every particle contains lOO^o cleansing efficiency. Six ounces of 
Hurley Soap will do the work of three 9-ounce bars of laundry soap, 
or 18 ounces ordinary soap powder. 

CHAPTER m 

How to Remove Stains and Set Colors 

iiO MATTER whether clothing be washed by hand or 
machine, it is necessary to know how to remove stains 
and to prevent colored goods from fading or becoming 
disfigured. 

Stains on fabrics or garments should always be re- 
moved as soon as possible. The older a stain is the harder it "sets". 
A stain not only disfigures but is also likely to eat away the fibre 
of the cloth. Always treat stains before washing as the washwater is 
likely to "set" them so they are very difficult or impossible to remove. 
In removing stains, remember that acids injure vegetable 
fibres and alkalis injure animal fibres. Wherever possible, use 
water either hot or cold, and sometimes steam (from a tea-kettle 
spout). When an acid is used on cotton or linen goods, finish by 
rublDing with a weak solution of sodium acetate (or other mild 
alkali) to neutralize the acid and protect the fabric. Water spong- 
ing is not safe as it merely dilutes the acid. 

Stains are removed by three different types of action — depend- 




101 



ing upon the nature of the fabric and of the stain itself. These 
three ways are : 

1 — Absorbing. 
2 — Dissolving. 
3 — Bleaching. 

An efficient housewife should have a complete collection of stain removers, 
carefully labeled, at hand, for prompt use. A glass medicine dropper is very con- 
venient for use in treating stains. Any druggist can be of help in making up a 
collection of stain removers. 



1— TO USE ABSORBENTS 

Cover grease spots with powdered absorbents, such as talcum, fuller's earth, 
French chalk, starch or bolted meal and let stand for several hours. Brush carefully 
and repeat if needed. For dry blood or ink stains, starch paste is an excellent 
absorbent. Cover freshly spilled liquids with any of above powders or pieces of 
blotting paper to prevent the liquid from spreading and soaking into the fabric. 

Another method of absorbing stains is to lay the stained fabric on white blotting 
paper (or soft unglazed white paper) cover with absorbent powder or more paper, 
and apply a warm iron. Repeat, using fresh paper or powder until the stain is 
entirely removed. 

2— TO USE SOLVENTS 

Water — Soak washable goods in cold water and wash with cold or tepid water 
and white soap. Use hot water in the same way or by stretching the stained goods 
over a bowl and pouring boiling water from a height. 

Note — Hot water sets some stains, such as blood, meat juice, milk and egg. 
Place non-washable materials over a pad of white cloth or absorbent paper — sponge, 
using very little water at a time. Change the pad as it becomes soiled or wet. Rub 
gently till dry. Caution — water spots some materials; experiment with a sample. 

Other solvents, such as alcohol, benzine, carbon tetra-chloride, chloroform, 
ether, gasoline and turpentine, can be used on materials that water will spot. 
Place the stained goods over a pad of cloth, apply the solvent, and work from the 
edge of the stain to the center. Change the under pad frequently. 



3— TO USE BLEACHING AGENTS 

A number of short applications of dilute bleaches are safer than long applica- 
tions of strong bleaches. Always remember a bleach is likely to remove dye from 
colored fabrics. Sunlight, lemon juice, sour milk, borax, sulphur, oxalic acid, hy- 
drogen peroxide, potassium permanganate or Javelle water are commonly used 
bleaches. 

Place the stain, such as fruit, ink, iron, etc., over a bowl of hot water and apply 
the bleaching agent a drop at a time. When the stain changes color, dip into the 
water. Rinse with ammonia and then clear water. Caution — Use Javelle w-ater 
only on white cotton and linen. If the potassium permanganate leaves a pink stain, 
remove it with dilute oxalic acid. Never add Javelle water carelessly to wash 
water — use it as a bleach only. 



DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING STAIN REMOVERS 

Javelle Water — One-half pound chloride of lime dissolved in two quarts cold 
water. Dissolve one pound of washing soda in one quart of boiling water. Pour 



111] 



the clear liquid from the chloride of lime into a bottle and mix with the solution of 
washing soda. Cork and keep in a dark place. 

Oxalic Acid — POISON. Dissolve one ounce of the acid crystals in three- 
quarters of a cup of warm water. 

Potassium Permanganate — Dissolve one teaspoon crystals in one pint water. 

Hydrogen Peroxide — Add a few drops of ammonia just before using to make 
it work more quickly. 

REMOVAL OF STAINS 

NOTE: — After removing a stain you will sometimes find the color of the 
fabric has faded. Colors may often be revived by sponging lightly with pure acetic 
acid or the proper dye color dissolved in benzine. 

Blood and Meat Juice — 

1 — Never put into hot water as that "sets" the stain. Soak at once in cold or 
lukewarm water, rub with soap and wash. 

2 — A paste of raw starch mixed with cold water will remove these stains on 
flannel, blankets, and heavy goods. Repeat until stain disappears. 

Bluing — Boil the stained material twenty minutes. Add vinegar, if a bleach 
is necessary. 

Chocolate, Cocoa, Tea and Coffee — 

1 — If Cream has been added to Coffee, first apply a grease solvent. Wet spot 
with cold water, cover with borax paste and wash with cold water. 

2 — Pour on boiling water from a height. If necessary, bleach with potassium 
permanganate or Javelle water. (White goods only.) 

Egg — Wash in cold water, then warm water and soap. 

Fruit and Fruit Juices — Treat same as Coffee stains. 

Grass Stains — 

1 — Wash at once with cold water and soap. 

2 — Wet the spot, add dry cream of tartar (and an equal amount of salt, if goods 
are colored), keeping spot over a basin of steaming water (or teakettle spout). 

3 — For colored materials, dissolve spot by sponging with alcohol or ether or 
apply molasses or a paste of soap and cooking soda and let stand over night. 

Grease, Oil, Cream — 

1 — For wash goods, use warm water and soap. 

2 — If material would be spotted by water, use an absorbent, such as alcohol, 
benzine, carbon tetra-chloride, chloroform, ether, gasoline or turpentine — as directed 
under "Solvents" above. 

3 — Use dry absorbents, such as fuller's earth. 

Indelible Pencil — 

1 — Soak in alcohol and wash with water and soap. 

2 — Wash with soap and water and apply potassium permanganate as a last 
resort. 

Ink— 

1 — Moisten with salt and lemon juice and lay in bright sunlight. Repeat. 

2 — Soak fresh stains in sour milk or buttermilk. 

3 — Use an absorbent with a warm iron. 

4 — Soak stain with weak solution of oxalic acid, rinse in water to which a few 
drops of ammonia have been added. 

5 — Apply a few drops of oxalic acid, then a few drops of Javelle water and 
rinse at once in clear, boiling water. 

Iodine — 

1 — Soak or sponge with ammonia. 

2 — Prepare starch as for laundry purposes, immerse stained material and boil. 

3 — Wash with alcohol. 

Iron Rust — 

1 — Use salt, lemon juice and sunlight. 

2 — Boil stain in cream of tartar (4 teaspoons cream of tartar to one pint of 
water). 

3 — Place spot over a bowl of boiling water and treat with or dilute by hydro- 



[12] 



chloric acid and dip instantly into hot water. Borax or a few drops of ammonia in 
the water are desirable. 

Kerosene — Use soap and warm water. 

Machine Oil — 

1 — Use soap and cold water. 

2 — Sponge with turpentine. 

Medicine — Soak in alcohol, dilute oxalic acid or boiling water. 

Mildew — 

(If mildew has grown into fabric, it cannot be removed.) 

1 — If stain is fresh, wash with cold water and soap. 

2 — Soak in sour milk, lay in sun without rinsing. 

3 — Cover with paste of fuller's earth, or powdered chalk and salt. 

4- — If stain is old, bleach with Javelle water or potassium permanganate, wash 
in hot water and place in sun. 

Milk — Wash at once in cold water and then soap and water. 

Mucus — 

1 — Soak in cold salt water (two tablespoons salt to one quart of water). 

2 — If very soiled, boil in salt water, using an enameled pan. 

Paint, Varnish, Vaseline — 

1 — If fresh, use cold water and soap. 

2 — Sponge with turpentine. 

3 — Boil white cottons and linens in a solution of washing soda (3 teaspoons to a 
gallon of water). 

4 — Sponge delicate goods with carbon tetra-chloride. 

5 — Soften old stains with kerosene, then wash with turpentine, applying with 
a soft brush. (Vaseline stains which have been boiled cannot be removed.) 

Perspiration — 

1^ — Use warm water, ammonia and soap; bleach. 

2 — Soak stain in cold water, wash with borax and expose to sunshine. Remove 
odor with chloroform. 

Pitch, Rosin — 

1 — Rub with fat or lard and wash. 

2 — Sponge with benzine, gasoline or carbon tetra-chloride. 

Scorch — Wet and bleach in sunshine. 

Shoe Polish— 

Black — Rub with grease, wash in thick suds. Use turpentine on wool and silks. 

Brown — Soap and water; sponge wool with alcohol, then wash in soap and 
water. 

Soot — Brush lightly, then use an absorbent powder, such as fuller's earth. 

Stove Polish— 

1 — Use cold water and soap. 

2 — Soak in gasoline or chloroform. 

Tobacco — 

1 — Water and soap, followed by lemon juice bleach. 

2 — Use Javelle water on white cottons and linens. 

3 — Sponge wool with alcohol. 

Water — Dampen entire garment, press while damp. Shake in steam and press. 

Wax or Paraffin — Treat same as grease, using absorbents. Bleach if necessary. 

Today with the high price of all textiles, it becomes a matter not only of choice 
but of necessity to keep colored goods from fading. A few moments' care will pre- 
vent expensive goods from "bleeding" or fading. If garments are made at home, it 
is always best to both shrink and set the colors before making up. Colors set with 
salt must be re-treated each time, but alum is good for all colors and gives more 
permanent results. Use cold water allow to stand overnight, then let the article dry 
before washing. 

To Set Pink, Brown, Black, or Black and White — Use 2 cups salt to 1 gallon 
water. 

To Set Blue, Green or Mauve — Use ]/2 cup strong vinegar or 1 tablespoon alum 
to 1 gallon cold water. 

To Set Lavender — Use 1 tablespoon sugar of lead to 1 gallon cold water. 



[13] 



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CHAPTER IV 

The Right Way to Do Machine Washing 

O YOU soak the clothes when you use a machine?" 
"Is it necessary to boil them after washing?" "How 
long do you let the washer operate?" These are only 
a few of the many questions which women ask me about 
washing clothes the machine- way. Or every once in a 
while I still find a housekeeper saying: "I don't believe in washers, 
I just know they won't work, and the old way is good enough for 
me." Or perhaps again, "If you have to wash the flannels and 
colored things by hand, I don't think a machine is worth buying 
just for the white clothes." 

All of these remarks prove that the women asking them are not 
fully informed as to the right way to machine-wash, and that they 
do not see the wonderful results guaranteed by such a cylinder 
washer as the THOR. But before answering all such questions and 
giving the clear, plain rules for successful machine washing in every 
case, I wish to "tackle" this point of the woman who is convinced 
that such and such a device or labor-saver "won't work." 

Whenever I hear this negative comment so forcibly expressed, I 
am reminded of a friend who once bought a fireless cooker. She knew 
I had used a fireless successfully for many years, so she told me she 
was going to buy that identical make. I did not see her until 
several months later, when naturally I asked her how she liked 
the cooker she had purchased. To my amazement she replied 
that she had returned it to the manufacturer. 
"What was the matter with it?" I questioned. 
"Oh, it was defective," she assured me; "I put the cereal in at 
night and when I took the pot out in the morning it was cold and the 
oatmeal still raw. No one can make me believe you can cook in that 
cold box ! So I sent it right back to the manufacturer in three days. ' ' 

Now my friend thought (and probably still thinks) that she 
bought a "defective" cooker, but 
I know that she had not learned 
to use that cooker right. And so 
whenever I hear a woman say 
that a certain well-tested device 
"won't work," I am certain that 
the device will work if the woman 
only understands and operates it 
intelligently. Over and over again 
I have found that all such "come- 
backs" about equipment arise 
because the worker buying it has xhe Control Buttons 



•141 








Starts and Stops Instantly at Your Touch 

not studied the mechanism, tested it, used a little patience and 
followed well-worked-out rules for its operation. 

I am quite sure that when somebody told your grandmother 
that finer, and more even, and perfect stitches could be taken in 
cloth with a needle set in a strange machine operated by a wheel 
and belt, than she could make by hand, that 5//^ too, said that this 
new sewing machine ''wont work" — and it probably took some time 
for her to be convinced. 

But you to-day know the perfection of sewing machine work, and 



[15] 



even if you cannot obtain the smoothest results the first time you 
place your foot on the treadle, will you foolishly condemn so wonder- 
ful a labor-saver as a sewing machine and say that it "won't work?" 
Yet why do you repeat similar doubts about a washing machine, 
especially when you may not have used it the right way? 

Before you pass judgment on the THOR washer or exclaim 
that you "don't believe it will wash clean," or "can't see how it 
will wash without rubbing," etc., I have just one advice — give the 
THOR a fair trial, and operate it after well- tested directions. If 
thousands and thousands of other women have proved that the 
THOR gives perfect, satisfactory results over years of service, 
will the THOR not also wash your family's clothes successfully? 

In the past years during which I have been a professional 
Household Efficiency Engineer, I have studied hundreds of tasks 
both in the factory and the home. From these experiments I have 
come to believe that there is always one best, one shortest, one 
easiest way to follow for any given piece of work. I like to call such 
a one best, shortest, easiest method a "standard practice." This 
means the set of directions, or practice of doing a task which is so 
good or perfect that it may really form a standard, and be followed 
over and over with the same perfect results. Just as we must follow 
a cooking recipe with its exact amounts, way of beating, tempera- 
ture and time in the oven to bake a perfect cake, so too, we must 
follow the exact instructions as to amount of soap solution, tem- 
perature of water, and time of operation of the washer, to secure 
perfect washing results. What a recipe is in cooking, a ''standard 
practice" is in the handling of a tuachine, or process of work. 

What, then, is this "standard practice," or right way to machine- 
wash clothes with a THOR washer? 



Standard Practice for THOR Washer 

(THOR Washer, Two Wash Tubs, One Basket) 



1 — Lx)ok over clothing and remove 
spots and stains, sort and put to soak. 
(If the clothes are soaked over night, have 
the water as hot as you wish, but if the 
clothes are not soaked over night, do not 
have the water any hotter than you can 
bear your hand in. It is advisable to at 
least soak the clothes a few minutes before 
putting them in the machine.) 

2 — Water can be heated in an ordi- 
nary wash boiler, if you have no hot 
water plant. 

3 — Prepare soap solution to be used. 

4 — Wring pieces for first load (table 
linen, etc.), from soak tub, putting into 
the machine only enough pieces to come 
to the level of the lifters (C-D) in the 
cylinder. Do not pack the clothes in tight. 
If the cvlinder is full, there will not be 
enough of a "drop." Put in hot water to 
just come below the two lifters (C-D). 




• v^^ D 



[161 



m 




All Yotc Have to Do Is to Guide the Clothes Thru the Wringer 



Water must not come above "water line." Fasten both catches on the cyUnder 
cover securely. Start the machine. Pour in soap solution as cylinder revolves. 
This will start the suds immediately. Close the cover of the machine in order to 
maintain heat of the water. This first cylinderful of clothes should run about 
15 minutes. 

5 — While the machine is washing the first load, wring the rest of the soaking 
clothes into a basket or to the top of the machine. 

6 — Drain stationary tubs and fill with clean, fresh, warm water for rinsing. 
The rinsing of the clothes is very important, as all soap must be removed from the 
clothes. 

7 — Prepare blue water (no directions can be given for preparing blue water, 
as bluing comes in so many degrees of strength). Use care that bluing is thoroughly 
mixed with water to prevent streaking of clothes. 

8 — Wring the washed clothes from the machine directly into boiler, if you are 
going to boil them; otherwise into the rinse tub. In wringing, always spread the 



[17] 



clothes out so that the wear on the rolls will be uniform. Don't have rolls too tight. 
When usinp a power wringer, the tendency is to keep the rolls too tight, particularly 
in wringing linens. This should not be done as extreme pressure might injure the 
fabric and make it diHicult for ironing. For large extra pieces, such as bed-spreads, 
blankets, etc., the tension on the rolls should always be greatly lightened. 

9 — Put in the second lot of clothes and add enough soap solution to equal 
J^ cake or one tablespoon Hurley Soap. 

10 — Prepare starch and put up lines. 

1 1 — Proceed with second and third load same as first. (In the average family 
three loads will take care of the white clothes.) 

12 — After the third cylinderful has been washed and wrung, draw out about 
one-fourth of the water, thus removing the sediment that has accumulated in the 
bottom of the machine. Add enough hot water to replace that drawn out and 
sufificient soap solution to make a good suds. 

13 — The flannel load follows the last white load Water should be lukewarm, 
not too hot, or it is apt to shrink woolens. Wring loosely. Rinse in water of same 
temperature as wash water. Re-wring, pull into shape and dry in warm temperature, 
never cold or freezing. 

14 — Colored load follows the flannel load and may be washed in the same water. 
Wring from washer into clear, clean water. Wring back to top of machine or into 
well-strained starch. Colored garments should be shaken out well, so that colors 
will not be likely to run into one another. 

15 — If there are many black stockings, they may form a separate load. Always 
use clear, fresh, soapy water. Do not wash stockings in water from a white load, 
otherwise the lint from the white pieces will make stockings gray. Turn all stockings 
inside out before washing. Brown pairs, which often "bleed", or colored socks 
should be done by themselves. In washing white stockings, be careful that water 
is not hot. Hot water yellows white silk. Rinse all stockings particularly well, 
and hang up by the feet. 

How to Arrange Your Washing 

Load 1 (White) — ^Tablecloths, napkins, doilies, dresser scarfs, aprons. 

Load 2 (White) — Sheets, cases, face towels, shirt waists, brassieres, cambric night 

or underwear, children's dresses, white petticoats, handkerchiefs. 
Load 3 (White) — Cotton or mixed underwear, bath towels, kitchen towels, bed- 
spreads, covers, night wear, cotton crepes, all coarse meshed goods. 
Load 4 (Flannel) — Night garments or underwear of flannel or outing flannel, petti- 
coats, shirts, small quilts, children's woolen articles, blankets, all flannel finish 
or partly wool goods. 
Load 5 (Colored) — Housedresses, men's shirts, rompers, children's dresses, aprons, 
all colored or partly colored goods of gingham, chambray, linen, etc. 
I wish every woman to know also how successful is the THOR machine-way 
of washing those many articles which are included in our home furnishings, but 
which cannot be classed as ordinary washing. For instance, I had for years been 
in the habit of sending my bath mats and the small rugs used so commonly in sum- 
mer, to the commercial laundry. The charge at first was about 25 cents each, but 
gradually it mounted until it was a heavy item of expense. Also, the rugs were 
faded badly. The laundress refused to handle them, because the lifting and work 
were so heavy. 

But when I bought my THOR washer, I tried to wash one of the small rag rugs 
just for experiment. What was my surprise to see it go thru the wringer as pretty 
and clean as the day it was new ! Ever since I have included the washing of all mats, 
cottoii rugs, etc., with no extra effort at all. 

How to Wash Bath Mats, Rag Rugs, etc. 

Use lJ-2 cups of white-soap solution to each load and luke-warm water. Rinse 
in luke-warm water, fold mat lengthwise in half and run thru wringer. (Do not 
have wringer too tight.) 

Another article of wear which used to be a bugaboo to wash was our heavy 



181 



winter bathrobes. Sometimes 1 sent them to the dry cleaner who charged about 
$2.00 a apiece. Or I paid the laundress extra, because they were so heavy. Now, 
we simply follow the directions for all wool washing: 

How to Wash Bathrobes, Small Quilts, Wool Baby Coats, etc. 

Use 2 cups of white-soap solution and luke-warm water. Rinse in two luke- 
warm waters. Run most carefully thru wringer, beginning with portion of hem and 
loosen wringer over sleeves, collar, etc. If quilts, fold and wring; if white wools, 
use 2 tablespoons of borax in rinse water. 

Every housekeeper, expecially in soft-coal-using sections, knows how dirty 
lace or window curtains become. For fear of harming the lace, I used to allow my 
curtains to hang until they were too soiled. Now, I have found that the right way 
is to take them down and launder them often, as follows: 

How to Wash Lace Curtains, Scrim, Net, etc. 

Shake curtains free of loose dust. Soak overnight in cold water. 

Wring loosely from water into machine. (Curtains must not come above the 
two lifters.) (C-D.) Add hot water and soapy solution sufficient to make good 
suds. Operate machine about 12 minutes. Wring loosely into rinse water, blue 
rinse with thin starch water, if white curtains are wanted or prepare strained coffee 
infusion, if curtains are wanted in ecru tone. Wring loosely and stretch or pin on 
frames. 

No mother need fear that a THOR will harm even the most dainty baby 
garments. These may be treated with white-soap solution; operated from 5 to 10 
minutes, and rinsed carefully in warm water. To cleanse diapers, brush off, then 
soak in pail of cold water and 1 tablespoon of ammonia. Wash in pure white-soap 
solution, wring into boiler, rinse and hang at once in sun. 

How to Wash Overalls and Work Clothing 

On the farm, or where some of the family use special work clothing, the THOR 
will be found of greatest value, since it will machine-wash clean, garments from 
which hand rubbing cannot adequately remove the soil and grease. If very greasy 
or with paint spots, cover spots with kerosene and let stand. Put garments in 
machine; cover with hot water and turpentine solution; operate 15 to 20 minutes; 
wring; rinse in hot water and wring again. Hang overalls up while wet, pull in 
shape and they will need no ironing. 

How to Wash Clothes or Garments of Corduroy 

Many articles of corduroy, such as leggins, carriage robes, coats, etc., which 
are most difficult to wash by hand are very quickly cleai-^^ed the machine-way. 
Follow the usual steps for washing woolens, using white-soap <?olution, luke-warm 
water, operating about 15 minutes. Never put thru wringer or wring with hands, as 
this crushes the fabric. Lift up while wet, stretch into shape and hang wet. While 
drying use soft brush to smooth down the nap. White outerwear corduroy skirts 
are washed as above, and hung evenly from belt. 

In the past washing blankets at home was perhaps the heaviest of work, and 
indeed most laundresses refuse to do it, or demand extra pay as well as failing to 
wash them so as to retain their new and fluffy appearance. All the heavy lifting, 
wringing and "sousing" is done away with, and we can trustfully follow the slogan: 
"Let the THOR do it." 

Follow directions for washing white woolens, as to temperature and soap 
solutions. Do not overload the washer, rather wash each large blanket separately. 
Rinse thoroughly in water of same temperature, using 2 tablespoons borax. Adjust 
the wringer rolls carefully, so as not to squeeze the fabric, hang by edges folded on 
the half lengthwise, so as to keep shape. Brush with a stiff whiskbroom while 
drying to raise the nap. 



•191 




CHAPTER V 

Which Way Do You Iron? 

NEED scarcely recall to you the old-fashioned way of 
ironing — you take a three-pound or five pound iron and 
heat it on the stove until you can hear it si-z-z when you 
spit on it ! Then you walk from the stove carrying the 
hot iron (who said "danger from machinery?") over to 
the board. Then you begin to iron; but in a few moments the iron 
has cooled and you need another, so back and forth you go, changing 
and carrying hot irons every five minutes. And in summer weather, 
you stand for hours in a hot room, walking and lifting irons, and 
using the greatest pressure from your own arms. 

You may say that you do not use the old type flatirons, that you 
use an electric iron; that, indeed, is one step in advance. Even 
that is inefficient. Here is a tablecloth, for example, which measures 
three yards long. How many rubs do you have to press forward and 
back in order to iron that total surface? An electric iron has barely 
24 square inches in its surface; the average tablecloth has 7,776 
square inches of area. Now isn't it foolish to iron an area of nearly 
8,000 inches with a heated tool measuring only 24 inches? Nothing 
could be a clearer case of "waste motion!" 

What holds true of a tablecloth holds equally true of sheets, 
spreads, cases, napkins and towels— all of these large surfaces are 
ironed very slowly when any small hand iron is used. Also, since 
the material must be lifted frequently from one position on the 
board to another, there is always danger of creasing and uneven 
folding, as well as time lost in handling, etc. And last, all hand 
ironing requires heavy pressure from your own arm to give the polish 
and gloss. 

With the THOR ironer there is no lifting or carrying, no chang- 
ing of temperature in the iron, no walking about the room, no tiring 
strain for your arm, shoulders and back. 

A THOR ironer is simply a machine having an ironing surface 
of wide area, heated with gas, gasoline, or electricity, as you prefer, — 
and it is evenly and uniformly healed all of I he time. In front of the 
"shoe" is a padded roller. You take your dampened article, slip it 
between the roller and the heated "shoe" and presto! — it comes 
out on the talDle smooth and with the most perfect finish. And the 
ironer is so wide that you can iron not only one napkin, or a single 
towel at one time, but can place two or even more pieces side by side 
and iron them simultaneously —remembering all the while that your 
arm does not press, you only guide the work. That is, you can accom- 
plish as fine or even finer work with the ironer than you could pos- 
sibly do by hand— and yet your arm is not fatigued, you feel no strain. 



[201 



r" 



^ 




Value of 
Open-End" Roll 



Two handy buttons on the operating 
dial open and close the ironing shoe. 
Even the pressure on the roll is auto- 
matic. Sit down — touch one finger 
on the handy dial — guide the pieces 
through, that's all! Start or stop the 
roll at will. 




The Thor Ironer irons soft collars, cuffs 
and neckbands, ruffles and flounces. 
You can readily see how this feature 
of Thor construction gives you almost 
unlimited ironing service. 



A further innovation of the THOR ironer is its wide-opening 
"shoe"; that is, the "shoe" drops back four inches away from the 
roll. This is a special feature with great advantages. It provides 
plenty of room for cleaning and polishing, and removing the starchy 
accumulations that frequently form on the "shoe". A touch of 
the button will cause the "shoe" to move back into working position 
after cleaning. The THOR is the only ironer with this wide-opening, 
convenient "shoe." 

"But I have only a small wash. What is the use of buying an 
ironer for the flat work only and then have to iron all the other 
pieces in the same old way by hand?" some housekeeper may ask. 
I am so glad you brought up this question! 

For I, too, remarked the same thing a number of years ago. 
I believed that an ironer was good only for the so-called "flat" 
pieces — sheets, table linen, towels, etc. But when I experimented 
with the THOR in connection with my work, I found out differently. 



:2V. 



Children's 
Dresses, Romp- 
ers, Bungalow 

Aprons 
Pajamas, etc. 

These garments, the 
large part of the week- 
ly ironing, are easily 
and quickly done with 
the Thor. Many of 
them may be started 
at the bottom of hem 
and ironed up, sleeves 
and all in one opera- 
tion. 





Men's Shirts and Soft Collars 

The entire shirt, eren the neckband and 
gathers in the shoulders, is ironed per- 
fectly by the Thor Ironer 

F"irst the sleeves, then the back, then the 
front of the shirt with the shoulders ironed 
at the open end of the roll and last of all 
neckband and cuffs. 

Men's soft collars are ironed fiat, then 
folded and creased by running the top 
one-half inch through the open-end roll. 



Women's Blouses, Lingerie, 
Wash Dresses 

You can iron your blouses and dresses on a 

Thor. The open-end roll makes it easy to 

iron ruffles, collars, cuffs and shoulder 

straps. 

Lingerie may be done in a small fraction 

of the time required for hand ironing. 




[22] 



Every week I would surprise myself at the different articles I could 
iron beautifully on an ironing machine. There, for instance, are the 
housedresses, usually bulky and heavy pieces which require a heavy 
hot iron and good pressure. It used to take at least a half hour to 
make one such dress appear good-looking by hand. 

But now I do them on the ironer, this way: I take the dress 
by the hem, shake it, and start the hem on the double into the 
ironer. I let it iron up to the belt, or where the gathers are at the 
waist. Then I release the dress, and take it out. I next start 
each sleeve, beginning at the cuff, and iron until I reach the armhole, 
then release. Then I fold waist part in center front and iron to 
armpit. Reverse, and iron other side. Iron back of dress same as 
front. By quick little turns of the hand, using the "open end roll," 
it is possible to do the collars, cuffs, and more fussy parts. 

After you can iron a dress, it is just play to do a skirt, apron, 
or nightdress on the ironer, I generally start everything at the 
bottom hem, or with an apron or gown fold it in half, and run thru 
on the double. It's just a joy to see a pretty nightdress with kimono 
sleeves roll out in front of you, perfectly smooth, not a wrinkle, 
with all the lace, edging and embroidery pressed smooth and attrac- 
tive like new. I like to do flannel night wear, too, because it looks 
so clean and fresh when ironed the machine way. The roller seems 
to raise the nap and the steady, even pressure makes all patterns 
come out clear and bright. 

And don't let me forget shirts and brassieres, and such appar- 
ently difficult things. I couldn't get the knack of doing shirts for 
a while, but now it is no trouble at all. I iron the sleeves first, 
putting them in cuff-end first, and then release at the armholes. 
Next I fold back of shirt together, seam to seam, and run through 
at the end of ironer up to armpit, release shoe, and move slighth 
over towards end and finish up to gathers. Reverse and iron on 
other side in the same way. Then I lay button side of shirt next 
to roller (buttons down so that wrong side of shirt is up) and run 
through at end of ironer up to armpit, release shoe, move slightly 
over and finish around armhole and up to neck-band. The other 
half of the shirt is ironed in the same way. I fold yoke flat against 
back of shirt and start in corner-wise around the end of ironer. 
Then I finish neck-band and cuffs around end of ironer. Last I 
lay the whole body of shirt flat and finish off by running through 
ironer up to armpit. This gives the shirt a final finish. 

Children's dresses are the most easy to do: Start at the hem 
and iron up, often doing the entire garment, sleeves and all, as it 
is laid out on the -single ply on the roller. 

But perhaps the greatest pleasure is to do linens, and doilies, 
and all pieces with embroidery and initials. I just love to run in a 
tray-cloth with scalloped edge and initial and watch the embroidery 
sink into the padding of the roll and be pressed there by the heated 
"shoe", and then roll out, smooth, lustrous and with the stitching 
all raised and perfect, rich and decorative again. All women who 



[23] 



Napkins and 
Small Flat Work 

The old way — one 
piece at a time — slow, 
laborious. The Thor 
way — one dozen pieces 
in 10 minutes 

Handkerchiefs, nap- 
kins, towels, etc., may 
be ironed and folded 
with perfect results in 
quick time. The ma- 
chine automatically 
adjusts itself to dif- 
ferent thicknesses as 
articles are folded. 





Table Cloths, 

Bedspreads, 

etc. 

30 to 45 minutes by 

hand. 5 to 8 minutes 

with the Thor 

Glossy, snow white 
table linen, the pride of 
every housewife, glides 
lustrous and crisp from 
the Thor Ironer. Thor 
uniform pressure and 
heat gives far better 
results than laborious 
hand ironing — with 
only "hnger tip effort". 



Lace Curtains 

No stretching frames 
are needed for lace 
curtains when you iron 
with a Thor. Merely 
dry your curtains and 
iron like a table cloth, 
stretching them to the 
proper width with your 
hands as theygo 
through the machine. 
Ruffles may be quickly 
ironed with the open 
end of the roll. 




:24] 



love linens and embroidered pieces will really adore using the THOR 
ironer, just for the pleasure of seeing their handiwork look so beauti- 
ful after it has been ironed in the machine way. 

And so, my housekeeping friend, the THOR ironer is not only 
for ironing "fiat work", but you can iron with it practically 95% 
of all your clothes. And it irons this 95% more beautifully, rnore 
exquisitely, than the most excellent laundress — and in a far shorter 
time. 

Granted that the ironer did no better work, think of the saving 
in time; then consider also that you can iron the heaviest sheets and 
pieces without fatiguing yourself a bit while you either stand or sit 
at a comfortable machine, in a cool room. But the ironer does better 
work than can be done by hand, because, as I have said, the shoe is 
evenly and uniformly heated, and the pressure is always the same. 

When you consider all these advantages — which way will you 
iron? The THOR ironer comes in various sizes to meet the require- 
ments of different families, and in different models to suit those 
living in either city or country. List given at the back of this 
booklet. 

The following is a sample of a big ironing covering the actual 
work done for 3 adults and 3 children in less than 3 hours. This 
ironing done by hand would take about 8 hours. 

Flat Work 

16 Sheets 30 min. folded 

16 Pillow cases 16 " 

2 Bed spreads 8 " 

36 Towels 12 " 

24 Handkerchiefs 6 " 

3 Tablecloths, 2}4 yds 12 " 

12 Napkins 6 " 



90 min. folded 1 hr. 30 min. 



Exclusive of Flat Work 

6 Shirts 20 min. 

6 Boys' shirts (collars attached) .... 18 " 

3 House aprons 12 " 

6 Suits men's athletic underwear .... 6 " 

2 Pr. pajamas 6 " 

3 Night gowns 5 " 

3 Ladies' envelope suits 7 " 

8 Soft collars 3 " 

2 Pr. children's bloomers 5 " 

2 Petticoats 4 " 



86 min. 1 hr. 26 min. 



Total 2 hr. 56 min. 



[25] 




CHAPTER VI 

The High Cost of Cleaning 

flow many persons think of laundry work as cleaning? We 
are all familiar with discussions on the "high cost of 
Hving"; but how much of this "high cost" is brought 
about by the money we lay out every week, either when 
we send clothing to the commercial laundry, or when we 
have the work done at home and pay $3.00 and more per day to the 
laundress? Most budgets allow only a small sum for all "operating" 
— such as light, fuel, soap, service, laundry, etc. But I think that if 
we stopped to estimate, many of us would find that we are spending 
on the cost of cleaning our clothes alone, enough money to pay for 
first-class season tickets to the opera, or to send one of our children 
a year through college. 

There has recently been a widespread suggestion to the house- 
keeper that she avoid all washday troubles by a plan of "send it to 
the laundry." One winter week when our pipes were frozen and the 
wash heavy, I decided to take advantage of this enticing offer, "send 
it to the laundry," and thus relieve myself of all work and responsi- 
bility. Although we are a family of eight, I thought it would be more 
fair, for experiment's sake, to send only the clothing and pieces which 
would be used by an average family of jour — a mother, father, and two 
children of school age— /or one week. So I carefully sorted the wash, 
made duplicate lists, and sent the bundle to a good suburban laundry 
with the distinct understanding that these clothes were to be "rough 
dried only." I wanted to find out exactly what it cost to wash 
clothes, apart from the ironing charge. 

Imagine my amazement when I received the bill. I certainly was 
not prepared to pay this staggering sum. The clothes and pieces 
used bv an average family of four— for washing only— cost $5.80! 
Think of it, $5.80 for washing a small, average wash, without any 
petticoats, summer skirts, or fancy pieces — $5.80! 

The next thought which struck me was, what would it have cost if 
I had sent the clothes and pieces of my usual family of eight persons? 
Or think what I would have had to pay for the ironing in addition! 
Why, for almost the sum which they charged for washing each middy 
blouse or child's romper, I could have bought new blouses and 
clothes! This was winter— I hated to think what a summer washing 
would cost with even modest changes of white apparel.^ This was 
my first, last, and only desire to "send it to the laundr>^" 

But suppose that I did send my clothing to the laundry, both 
for washing and ironing, and say it averaged $5 a week (which is 
far too low an estimate), do vou realize that $5 weekly, or $20 a 
month, is the interest on $4,000 at 6 per cent.? Or put in another 
way, $20 is 20 per cent, of one-fifth of a salary of $100 a month; or 



2(5 



10 per cent, or one-tenth of 
a salary of $200 a month; 
or almost 7 per cent, of a 
salary of $300 a month? 
Now which of us has the 
right to spend even an un- 
necessary 7 per cent, of our 
salary on washing clothes, 
when there are so many 
lasting and more profitable 
ways of spending money 
on books, music, or travel, 
or in paying for a home of 
our own? 

I need hardly try and 
prove that the average fam- 
ily (even the family of four 
persons on an income of 
$300 to $400 a month) can- 
not afford to have its clothes 
washed at a commercial 
laundry. And the more 
children, or the greater the 
number of persons, the 
higher the ratio and more 
unbearable laundry costs 
become. 

I travel and lecture in 
all parts of the country, and 
I seem to hear nothing else 
but "high cost" of this or 
that. But do those women 
who become so excited at 
compare the money 
their total incomes? 



p. O. Box 302 



Phone 624 



Huntington Laundry Co. 



New York Ave., below Main Street 
A. M. WILLETS, Manager J 



\n^ 



^ 




ROUGH DRY 



L(2o-.c<rvTj qC , ^' 



^<TVv^. 



7-5- 

JO 

-SO 



Q^j^X^^S^Uouu^yb^ 



T 



/ 



s 



a1 






C^^ J 



"^.Si 



'0 



What I Paid for a Week's Washing 
for Four People 



a 2-cent raise in the price of steak, 
they spend on "operating" and laundry to 
They wail about the high cost of food (which 
they can't control), but what steps do they take to reduce the high cost 
of cleaning, which they can control, by refusing to pay the out- 
rageous commercial laundry fees, and instead save money by 
machine-washing. in their own homes? 

"But I don't send my clothes to the laundry; I have a laundress 
come and do them," some woman remarks. Uyou can still find some 
other woman willing to wash your dirty clothes, you are indeed a 
lucky housekeeper, for there are thousands and thousands of homes 
which cannot for any price secure either permanent servants or 
workers by the day. And that laundress if you do find her will ask 



[27] 



$3.00 and carfare, and you will provide her meals in addition, so 
that you are paying a high cost of cleaning in any event. 

Washing at laundry for average family of 4 $ 5 . 80 

Ironing of above wash at laundry 6 .00 



$11.80 



Washing and Ironing by Laundress for Average 

Family of Four 

Wages (plus carfare) $3.16 

Meals 60 

Wear on clothes by washboard method 50 

Soap, starch and fuel 37 

(Some pieces left over for housekeeper to iron) 

$4.63 

Washing and Ironing by THOR Washer and Ironing 

Machine for Family of Four 

Weekly investment cost of THOR washer $0 . 25 

Weekly investment cost of THOR ironer 30 

2 hours' current for washing 04 

2 hours' current for ironing 04 

2 hours' fuel for ironing 06 

Starch, soap, but less fuel 15 

(No pieces left over) 

$0.84 

Some difference between 84 cents and either $4 or $11, if the 
clothes are done by a laundress or at the laundry! But this differ- 
ence is when we estimate the clothes for a family of four — think 
what it would be if we had six or eight or more persons to wash and 
iron for! And, listen, the investment cost of the THOR washer and 
ironer is the same, no matter whether you have jour or double that nwn- 
ber in the family. You pay only 55 cents a week for the service of the 
THOR Laundry Helpers, no matter how long they work, or how 
many pieces to be ironed, or how many you wash for — of what other 
laundress can you say the same? 

When a laundress is engaged for a definite day, she comes if 
weather is good or bad, and if it is bad, then your wash is delayed, 
and you have to finish it the next clear day. Or, still oftener, if it is 
raining, she doesn't show up, and then you lose "your" day, and 
either have to postpone washing for a week, thus making you short 
of clothes, or you try to do some of it by hand, and wear yourself 
all out with the rubbing and the slop. But with a THOR washer, 
you are independent, and can wash any time the weather is at its best, 
and you prefer doing the work. 

If you do have a laundress and wish to have her continue to do 



•281 



the work, then the THOR will save her time. I know one wealthy 
home in Philadelphia which used to have a laundress come three 
days each week. They were very particular, and the work had to be 
done with great care. But the mistress bought a THOR washer, 
and took her laundress down to the local office of the Hurley Machine 
Co., to see how it was operated, and in a short time the laundress 
accomplished the same washing in one day. I myself seldom recom- 
mend equipment to be used by servants or hired help, but I am frank 
to say that even the typical "washwoman" likes to use the THOR. 
I know I was surprised to see how my own assistant took to it, and 
although she had hand-rubbed for years, she very quickly learned 
the principles of machine washing, and indeed has been of great help 
to me in co-operating on this booklet. 

Can you afford this "high cost of cleaning?" If not, then at once 
investigate the purchase of a THOR washer and ironer, in order to 
reduce your "operating cost" and keep it low in your budget. 
750,000 women have found the THOR a practical means of reducing 
their laundry expense. 



CHAPTER Vn 
The Woman and the Machine 

''Man's work is from sun to sun, but woman's work is never done.'' 

OW many millions of women have thought this, as they 
looked up from their pots and pans and washboards and 
gazed off at men who leave and come at regular hours, 
and whose work seems so much more interesting and stimu- 
lating and devoid of petty routine than their own ! The 
man who farms, the man who builds, the man who manages an office 
— is it true that his work is really easier? Why can man's work be 
reduced to regular hours while a woman drags on and on from morn 
till night? I will tell you — men are lazy — yes! — lazy — so lazy that 
they sat down and invented machines to do the work for them ! The 
farmer rides comfortably on his tractor, the builder uses electric 
cranes and drills, and the office man does not wear out his brains to 
add up a column of figures — he lets an adding machine do it for him! 

Yes, the one chief reason why man's work has progressed, why he 
has been able to cut down the effort and drudgery of many tasks, is 
because he uses machinery to replace hand labor. But women have not 
let machinery serve them. They were not used to it, and possibly in 
the past they were afraid of something with wheels and gears and 



[29] 




moving parts. The war, however, splendidly showed that woman 
could run machinery as well as man, and in factory and munition 
plants women were responsible for operating the most complicated 
tools of war production. 

If women can operate machinery so successfully in the factory 
why are they not willing to try it in the household where it will save 
them untold effort, labor and time? This is the "Machine Age" for 
the home, and no housekeeper of today need sit around and bewail 
that her "work is never done," if she only buys the right labor-savers 
and learns to use them properly. 

In the first place, there is no need to be "afraid of machinery." 
Take the THOR washer as the example of the highest type machine 
for the home. All moving parts are enclosed in the single tight- 
fitting housing at the side. Nothing can catch your clothes, nothing 
can catch your fingers while you work. 

If you wish to start the washer, press the white button and then 
pull the cylinder lever (release) at the side toward you, and the ma- 
chine starts — that is all you have to do. When you want to stop it, 
push the cylinder lever (release) from you, press the black button, 
and the machine instantly comes to a full stop. It's easier than turn- 
ing on and ofi" electric lights — and any child can do that with safety ! 

It is just the same with the wringer; if you wish to operate it press 
the white button, turn the short upright lever on the wringer to the 
right side, press the button and the wringer will wring from you. If 
you wish to pass the clothes in the other direction, turn the lever 
down to the left, and the clothes will be wrung backwards. You 
don't have any crank to turn — the wringer does the work. All you 
have to do is guide the clothes, taking care not to bunch them in the 
middle, which wears the rolls unnecessarily. And if the clothes 
should become wound about the rolls, just touch the Wringer Release 
— and instantly the pressure is released. This Wringer Release is a 
special patented feature to be found only on the THOR, and posi- 
tively makes any accident impossible. 

But the chief feature of the THOR washer which makes it so safe 
to operate is the Atalog. This is a device which connects between the 
motor and the driving mechanism in such a way that it is impossible 
to "over-strain" the motor. Even if you should put an overload into 
the machine, the Atalog would relieve the strain so that the motor 
would not be harmed. This wonderful protective device is found 
only on the THOR, and is one of the reasons why a woman can see 
why she should buy the THOR washer in preference to all others. 
The Atalog makes washing automatic. "Afraid of a machine?" — 
why any woman who can run a sewing machine with its exposed 
needle, its belt that sometimes flies off, its wheel which must be 
stopped and started so carefully by hand, will find a THOR washer 
safer and easier to run than any sewing machine! 



130] 



Safer Than Hand Methods 

The same points of perfect safety hold true of the THOR ironer. 
There is nothing to get out of order. All moving parts are covered 
just as they are in the THOR washer. The operator only has to 
guide the pieces through the ironer. The spring pressure is automatic 
and will adjust for any thickness of material, either a handkerchief or 
a folded table cloth. If she wishes, the worker may instantly open 
the ironing "shoe." It is impossible to have blistered hands with a 
THOR ironer. Talk about * 'danger in machinery' ' — why, there is 90 
per cent, more danger in using an old-fashioned fiatiron which may 
slide, turn over or fall off the board, than there is in using the THOR 
ironer on its firm stable stand. 

No, women must not be "afraid of machinery !" There is no need 
to be afraid with such perfected mechanisms as the THOR washer 
and THOR ironer. Just a half-hour practice will enable any woman 
to operate either machine in the right way. The point that the woman 
must see is this: that unless she learns to use machinery, her home is 
doomed. The old-fashioned servant girl, the "disappearing Lizzie," 
has gone forever, and we do not know that we would have her back if 
we could with all her inefficiency and waste. If we cannot get help we 
shall be forced to shut up house and endure the restricted living of the 
apartment or hotel with its lack of privacy and narrowing atmos- 
phere. The other and the real solution is to "carry on" our house- 
keeping with the aid of modern machinery and labor-savers. With 
such mechanical servants we can save time, save labor, and reduce 
our housekeeping to a short period of definite hours — and then 
"woman's work will be done." The THOR washer is saving time 
and labor in 750,000 homes today. 



CHAPTER Vni 

Let Your Husband Read This 

Perhaps you are one of the splendid modern women who do under- 
stand machinery. But in any case, let your husband read over this 
chapter with you, because men are more familiar with the technical 
construction of machinery and I want your husband to be satisfied 
on every point of the mechanical perfection of the THOR. 

First, notice the neat, attractive appearance of the washer. It 
is self-cleanable, because after you have washed the clothes, all you 
need to do is to start the cylinder (with cylinder cover closed) and 
flush out the dirty water. Then the rinsing, and your machine is 
sweet and clean. Leave the cover of the machine open, so that it 
will air. 

There is nothing "cheap" about the THOR. It is expertly made, 
and will last for years. 

The point of no exposed moving parts has been mentioned. Let 



sr 



your husband see how few parts there are — few parts mean Uttle or 
no repair. The cyhnder and the wringer are both shaft-driven by 
smooth running, silent, spiral-cut spur and bevel gears. All other 
gears are highest grade cast chilled gears — another patented feature 
found only in the THOR. The tub or body is made of 26-gauge 
sheet steel or of 20-ounce copper, double seamed and soldered, which 
makes it water-tight and rust-proof. The cylinders are of polished 
maple, MetalO, or of Luminoid. 

The THOR rests on easy-rolling swivel casters, so that no effort 
is required to move the machine to any desired place. 

Notice again the special safety wringer release which instantly 
releases pressure of rolls. The swinging wringer is all metal, which 
makes it indestructible. 

Have him look at the high grade standard make of motor. 
Remember the great value of the Atalog, the THOR patented motor 
protector which prevents overstrain of the motor. There is nothing 
to get out of order. See how easy to get at are the few places which 
require oiling. Reference to the instruction chart sent with the 
machine will enable you to locate every point where the machine 
needs lubrication, in order to give the best service. Your husband 
can explain where the grease cups are, the shaft, the lever, and 
show you how to release the wringer or any point in the machine's 
operation. 

You will see that compared to other washing machines the 
THOR is not only the sturdiest, but the simplest, as well. There 
is nothing to get out of order, nothing which you will not be able 
to fully understand. 

The same is true of the THOR Automatic Ironing Machine, 
which any girl of 15 can learn to operate in a few minutes. It is so 
smooth, so easy to keep clean, so automatic, that there is no hard 
work and ironing becomes a real pleasure. 

On the ironing machine, notice the special drilled hole gas burner 
pipe which was immediately adopted and recommended by gas 
experts, among them the Consolidated Gas and Electric Company 
of New York. 

The open end shoe permits ironing 95 per cent, of your work. 

The three-point suspension is found only in the THOR machine. 
By this special construction any unevenness of the floor in the 
laundry is overcome. It insures even pressure along the entire 
length of the roll which is very important. 

Another important thing is the shaft drive. This not only 
eliminates the use of belts which break and slip, but it is possible 
to use a small but powerful motor which greatly reduces the operating 
cost. 

If you are planning a new home, The Hurley Machine Company 
will be glad to send you free a blue print plan of a model laundry. 



[32] 



Another Important THOR Labor Saver 



T IS perfectly obvious that housecleaning done 
'h\\ in the old way with a broom and duster is un- 
, ,.^ healthful, yet many women continue to do their 
"^ work this way because they have not stopped to 
think how unsanitary it really is. 




Just consider for a moment — isn't it foolish to sweep a rug 
or a carpet vigorously with a broom, only to raise clouds 
of dust that settle back again over the curtains and 
draperies, and over the furniture, 
making it necessary for you to go 
over each article in the room 
painstakingly with a dustcloth? — 0i 

and all the time you are breathing 
this dust and germ-laden air. 

How much better it is to 
use a modern vacuum 
cleaner which takes up 
the dirt in a bag instead 
of scattering it! The 
THOR Electric 
(Floating Brush) 
Vacuum Cleaner 
sweeps and 
sucks up 
threads, 
lint and lit- 
ter, and 
draws out 
all dust and 
grit that is 
embedded 




331 





in rugs, in draperies, and in uphol- 
stered furniture. It can be used to 
clean the radiators, the mouldings, 
and the baseboards. It passes easily 
from the rug to the bare floor and 
back again, because the ''floating" 
brush takes care of any unevenness. 

Every care has been used to make 
the THOR Cleaner easy to use and 
care for. Raising the handle to a 
vertical position automatically stops 
the brush. The current is shut off 
in a second by the trigger snap- 
switch which is within finger's reach 
as you hold the handle. Rubber 
wheels prevent marring the 
floors, woodwork and furniture. It 
is a combination brush and suction 
cleaner so it can be used either way 
at the will of the operator. Only a 
moment is necessary to remove the 
cap at the side of the cleaner to 
insert the attachments for cleaning 
draperies and furniture. 




The THOR is equipped with a 
General Electric universal motor. 




■34' 



It has no belts to give trouble; it is 
direct driven . A special ' 'aeroplane ' ' 
fan gives the maximum cleaning 
efficiency. No special care is neces- 
sary, just put a few drops of oil in 
the motor occasionally. 

Like all other products manufactured 

by the Hurley 
Machine Com- 
pany, theTHOR 
Electric Vacu- 
um Cleaner is 
absolutely guar- 
anteed and it is 
well deserving of 
a place in your 
home. 




No. 77 THOR VACUUM CLEANER 
(With Floating Brush) 



Some 

Special Features 

on 

rifOR No. 77 

}'aciiuni Cleaner 



1. 12-inch Direct 
Driven Floating Brush. 
No Belts. 



2. Aeroplane Fan 
which increases clean- 
ing efficiercy. 



3. Raising the handle 
to a vertical position 
automatically stops the 
brush. 



4. Revolving brush is 
idle when attachments 
are used. 



5. Can be used as 
Suction or Brush Clean- 
er at will of the opei:i- 
tor. 



6. Automatic Air Shut- 
ofif in Nozzle when 
attachments are used. 



7. Handle of Special 
Aluminum Tubing with 
Wires Enclosed. 



8. Pistol Grip Handle 
with Trigger Switch. 



9. Solid Rubber 
Wheels with Oilless 
Bearing. 



10. General Electric 
Universal Motor. 



11. Total weight com- 
plete 16 lbs. 



[35] 




Where Your THOR Machine is Made 

{Covering Nine Acres) 







vA 



'%i'W''0'^ YOU could see your THOR washer, ironer and 
: % vacuum cleaner being made, you would not be sur- 
>t:;>) prised at their wonderful efficiency and quality. For 
Jr u Quality is the watchword of the entire Hurley Machine 
Company. Every part is subjected to the most rigid 

inspection before it leaves the factory; the work of each employee 

is checked and counterchecked, so that there can be no error, no 

flaw on any machine. 

The Hurley Machine Company is a Fifteen Million Dollar 
corporation, with a reputation for sixteen years of fair, square 
dealing. It has the largest area in the world devoted to the manu- 
facturing of electric equipment for reducing home drudgcr>^ This 
could be possible only through satisfied customers which the THOR 
has created in the past, and it is interesting to know that there are 
today 750,000 THOR washers in use. 

The Hurley Machine Company stands not only for efficiency in 
the home, but for the highest type of factory efficiency and satisfied, 
happy workers. No effort is spared to protect, watch, and give a 
square deal to the thousands of workers who produce the THOR 
machines to help you in your housekeeping. 



[36] 



List of 




ELECTRIC LABOR-SAVERS 

Electric Washing Machines 

No. 25 — Capacity 6 sheets or equivalent 
Galvanized steel body, wood cylinder, stationary wringer. 
Copper body, wood cylinder, stationary wringer. 
Galvanized steel body, wood or MetalO cylinder, swinging 
wringer. 

Copper body, wood or MetalO cylinder, swinging wringer. 

No. 28 — Capacity 12 sheets or equivalent 

Galvanized steel body, special copper cylinder, stationary 
wringer. 

Copper body, special copper cylinder, stationary wringer. 

No. 32 — Family Size — All Metal — Capacity 8 sheets or equivalent 
Galvanized steel body, Luminoid cylinder, swinging wringer. 
Copper body, Luminoid cylinder, swinging wringer. 

Electric Ironing Machines 

No. 75 Automatic — 44-Inch Roll 
Gas heated, Gasoline heated. Electric heated. 

No. 90 Automatic — 50-Inch Roll 
Gas heated, Gasoline heated. 

Any THOR washer or ironer may be equipped with a 32- volt motor, 
for use with a farm-Hghting plant. Or, if desired, machines can be 
furnished without motor to be operated from gas engines. 

Electric Vacuum Cleaners 

No. 77 Electric (with Floating Brush) 

Hurley Powdered Soap 

5-lb. packages 
25-lb. pails 
250-lb. barrels 



'^7] 










WK UKKsar CKjmf^rotiiji,.. Tiior .!25. Site- : 

(.4/»l.r,V». 007263 XckJiMuM rr. J.. P. Brovm ,. . 

awt/oitmd up to amr standard aftfieirafy, and h a^telntffy/nfjr^m imfrrietlioHt in rualfrial and uarJtmai 

WK /ta/iH/S f ajctre fa nptaa^ irtt aj thartit^ any part, or parti prtrring dtjttth-r ritker in matrria. 
nKinsiip t,n(cidtnt and mijnnr txtepud) witkin a prriad e/ ant roar from tliis data. 

WE FLRTItEK GVAKA.VTEB itat lia ra,t t/ ttrrlntily far afaratme'*' •' 
txutd Z emit ptr kanr. 



TTH^-TFn a! runr,, lUi: 



HURLEf MACHIHC COMPAUr 



The Hurley Guarantee 

Every purchaser of a THOR washing machine, THOR ironing 
machine, or a THOR vacuum cleaner, receives a Warrant, Guar- 
antee and Security Bond. This engraved certificate is your abso- 
lute protection. It is your complete assurance that the particular 
machine you buy has been thoroughly tested at the factory and 
passed as perfect by a skilled inspector before it is shipped. There 
can be no "come-back" with any THOR labor-saver manufactured 
by the Hurley Machine Co. The name "Hurley Machine Co." 
stands back of every machine you buy bearing the THOR label. 
This guarantee further states that the Hurley Machine Co. will 
supply, free of charge, any part or parts which are defective, within 
a full year's period. 

It also guarantees the cost of current used in operation — that 
even on any current rate, the charge for running the THOR No. 25 
or the No. 32 machines will not exceed two cents per hour, and that 
even for operating the largest sizes the cost will not be more than 
three cents per hour. There is no possible chance of buying a 
device which will break your pocketbook to pay for its operation. 
You are not buying a "pig in a poke" when you purchase any one 
of the THOR labor-savers. You know that it is perfect mechanically, 
that it will give service, and above all, what it will cost to run it. 

The HURLEY GUARANTEE protects your interests fully. 



[38] 




EASY PAYMENTS 

'jOUR Electric light Company or ANY 
THOR dealer will deliver to your home 
any or all of the THOR labor-savers for a 
small cash sum down, $10.00 brings the 
washer or ironer, $5.00 brings the cleaner, balance to 
be paid in twelve small monthly installments. 

This liberal selling policy puts the benefits of the 
THOR home efficiency devices within the reach oj all 
purses. It permits you to secure the help and serv- 
ices of these wonderful machines as yoii pay jor them. 
You don't have to wait until you pay the full amount 
— you can begin to use them at once. In this way 
the THOR products pay for themselves, because the 
moment you begin to use them you can stop paying 
for other costly hand labor. 

You can do with less hired service by the month 
or day, or entirely replace the usually wasteful, ex- 
pensive human worker if you use either a THOR 
washer, a THOR ironer, or the THOR vacuum 
cleaner. Put your home on the modern, up-to-date 
business basis which makes it possible for every 
housekeeper to have a "margin of leisure," solve the 
servant problem, and reduce the H. C. of L. 

Visit the THOR dealer in your city or town to- 
day. Ask to have a free demonstration. Operate 
the devices yourself, see how safe and easy they are, 
and how quickly you get results. Then talk to the 
dealer and he will tell you all about this unusual, 
helpful, "easy payment plan." 



[39] 




'HERE arc THOR dealers in 6,000 cities and towns 
throughout the country who sell and service THORS. 
All of the THOR machines may be featured and sold 
through the local electric light or power company. In 
still other cases, the THOR has as agent a prominent 
electrical dealer, in whose windows you will see these devices 
exhibited. The THOR is always demonstrated and attracts large 
crowds at the best electrical and household efficiency shows and 
exhibits. 

In addition to the 6,000 dealers, there are exclusive THOR 
Electric Shops, for sales and service, in the following Cities: 



California 

Los Angeles 

306 West Seventh Street 
San Francisco 

124 Post Street 

Illinois 

Chicago 

24 E. Jackson Boulevard 

Indiana 

Fort Wayne 

1204 Calhoun Street 

Iowa 

Des Moines 

908 Walnut Street 

Massachusetts 
Boston 

209 Tremont Street 

Michigan 

Grand Rapids 

130 Pearl Street 

Minnesota 

Minneapolis 

830 Marquette Avenue 



Missouri 

Kansas City 

817 Walnut Street 

St. Louis 

1006 Locust Street 
Ohio 

Akron (Rogers-Thor Electric Shop; 

18 East Market Street 

Canton (Rogers-Thor Electric Shop) 

138 Fifth Street, N.W. 

Cincinnati 

140 East Sixth Street 

Cleveland (Rogers-Thor Electric 
Shop) 

31-33 Colonial Arcade 

Toledo 

219 Superior Street 
Pennsylvania 

Philadelphia 

42 South 17th Street 
Utah 

Salt Lake City 

157 Regent Street 
Wisconsin 

Milwaukee 

114 Grand Avenue 



See if the THOR is carried by your electrical dealer, by the 
electric light company, by a hardware, a furniture, or a department 
store; or, if there is a special branch store in your particular city 
or town. If you cannot locate such dealer, or if you wish to ask 
further questions or order direct, you can write to — 



THE HURLEY MACHINE CO. 

General Offices and Works, 
West 22nd Street and 54th Avenue, 

CHICAGO 



HranchesK Toronto 
( London- 



New York— 147 West 12nd Street 
-66 Temperance Street 
N. W. 1-8 Pancras Rd., Kin<'s Cross 



[40] 




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